Integrity Auto: Independent Toyota, Lexus, & Scion Specialists Blog

How bad can my engine oil leak really be?

Posted by guest guest on Fri, Jan 19, 2018 @ 07:43 PM

 

Engine-Oil-Leaks

 

So your automobile is leaking a modest amount of oil. How big of a deal is that? Take a drive to the closest apartment complex you will notice oil spots in almost each and every parking spot. If everyone’s vehicle leaks oil, it mustn't be an issue-right? Perhaps, but the price of driving with your car with very low oil levels and damaging your engine is substantial in comparison to the price of fixing the oil leaks.

Leak location should also be a concern for even small gradual leaks. For instance, a leak inside your valve cover gasket makes it possible for oil to drip on to your exhaust manifold which happens to be so hot it will create nasty smelling smoke and possibly a fire, which makes it an extremely hazardous leak. Oil from seeping seals and gaskets has a tendency to move down, as a result of gravity, and towards the rear of the engine, because of the air movement past the motor.

Engine leaks occur exactly the same way as tranny leaks. The motor housing is a number of components attached to one another. Between these motor housing parts, you will find gaskets, to help sustain a seal. When these gaskets fail, motor oil will leak out. Nevertheless, in contrast to transmission oil that leaks when the automobile is cold, motor oil leakages have a tendency to occur once the motor is hot. It's because of the pressure within the working motor, which in turn causes the oil to get very thin. Motor oil may also leak from your hoses and lines that pump the oil into the motor and drain it out. This is often because of bad clamps or  small breaks or cracks in your hoses.

Oil leaks are often an indication of an automobile problem which will get even worse with time. When the leak is a result of a gasket failing, the oil will ultimately drip out.  An engine leak allows oil to seep out onto a hot motor. This could result in a fire. Additionally, if the motor oil leaks out to the street, sufficient leakage will deplete the motor oil level and the motor could seize upon account of insufficient lubrication.

Due to this, it isn't uncommon that almost everything underneath a leaking seal will probably be wet, and even though you are aware that the leak towards the top and/or front of the motor is leaking, everything beneath it or behind it might or might not be leaking. Frequently the one thing that can be stated without a doubt concerning the other wet areas is that they are in fact wet. Because of this, we advise repairing the recognized leaks, after which cleaning the motor to create a clean slate.

Following this, come back in for another examination following the automobile has been driven long enough for any leak to show itself, although not so prolonged that almost everything could possibly be so broadly wet as to obscure the origin of the leak.

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Wheel Bearings and their importance to your safety

Posted by guest guest on Fri, Jan 19, 2018 @ 06:22 PM

Wheel bearings perform a significant role in the drivetrain of an automobile because they supply the first link between the moving and static regions of the vehicle. A bearing – in the most basic form – is really a friction reduction device positioned within something such as a wheel to assist effectiveness of rotation. This is accomplished as rolling creates significantly less friction force than sliding.

A vehicle's wheel bearing performs this by utilizing small toyota_axel_wheel_bearings.jpgmetal balls that roll in between two smooth rings of metal. Along with grease, the bearing moves in-tandem while using wheel’s turning, the rolling motion of the balls making it possible for the wheel hub to turn as unhampered as possible.

The wheel bearing is located inside the hub assemblage, providing the static connection with the hub carrier using an outer ring or racer. The driveshaft moves from your transmission and goes through the center of the wheel bearing with the inner ring, allowing the spinning partnership. Roller bearings are utilized typically on the powered wheels of your vehicle, while tapered bearings are primarily utilized on the non-driven wheels.

This frequently causes the tone to alter, which will help identify whether or not the sound is actually an axle bearing or otherwise, and may frequently (although not always) reveal which side of the vehicle the bad bearing is. On rear wheel drive vehicles, occasionally the sound of a bad rear wheel bearing will probably be dampened while braking.

On rear wheel drive vehicles having a solid axle housing, a bad axle bearing will ultimately allow differential oil to leak beyond the axle seal and foul the braking system shoes, which means that the brakes must be replaced also. If your rear axle bearing should go bad enough, it may also result in the braking system drum producing a continuous connection with the brake shoes and destroying them with extreme heat leading to braking system failure.

Front axle bearings make it possible for the wheel to lay over a little so that it is continuously rubbing up against the brakes and may heat them up a great deal which it destroys the brake caliper and results in brake failure.

On front-wheel-drive vehicles, occasionally the rolling portion of the bearings continue to be good, but in which the inner bearing race presses into the wheel hub could possibly get worn and loose, contributing to extra play in the wheel. This extra play can lead to the rotors rubbing excessively on the brake pads and cause damage to the brakes because of excessive heat. Occasionally this tends to run quietly. In other situations, it is likely to make a cyclic unpleasant squeaking sound.

To be able to reduce the expense of any of these vehicle repairs, it is best to deal with them sooner rather than later. Remaining unrepaired, bad axle bearings will ultimately damage connected components that are essential to your safety.

Topics: toyota wheel bearings, wheel bearings

Do you really need to change your oil every 3000 Miles?

Posted by guest guest on Fri, Jan 19, 2018 @ 06:06 PM

 

toyota-oil

Yes and No, it really depends on the age of your vehicle, according to Toyota proper they say Standard Oil Change Intervals. A great guideline with regards to regular oil change time intervals is — every 5,000 miles or twice yearly concerning planned oil changes. Following this guideline helps keep your motor properly lubricated and running efficiently, making certain your 2016 Toyota and more recent makes/models will hold optimum efficiency.

In years past it absolutely was best if you change the oil and filtering regularly, but due to the fact of improvements in engine components and tighter specifications, along with the oil which goes into engines that changed.

Makers recommend you change oil more frequently for "extreme" operating conditions, for example repeated trailer towing, considerable stop-go driving or idling in traffic, (like when traveling the I5 or the 205 in Portland), driving in extreme cold or heat, or frequent short-distance driving where the motor does not achieve full operating temperatures.

Consistently changing your Toyota's engine oil is among the very least glamorous, but a majority of helpful things you can do to make sure your automobile has a lengthy and happy life.

Probably the most essential factors oil ought to be changed is the fact that, as time passes, oil breaks down because of use and heat exposure. It will become less efficient at lubrication, which in turn causes engine components to rub against each other.

Take care of your engine with our Toyota Oil services.

Motor oil also will get contaminated by elements like airborne dirt and dust, metallic particles as well as antifreeze. And are you aware that the additive package, which belongs to your fully designed motor oil, will breakdown over time and turn into a contaminant, as well? As contaminants are pulled in to the oil, sludge is created. This sludge will adhere to areas of the engine resulting in the engine to perform much less effectively. Ultimately, this sludge could cause engine failure.

Main point here changing your engine is a lot more costly than changing your Toyota's oil. Our professional recommendation would be to replace your motor essential oil and filter every 3000+ miles. When performing this service, we also inspect it for any other needs that may have developed in the interim.

Contact Duke to have your Toyota, Lexus, Scion Oil Serviced today! 503-715-3542.

Topics: Toyota Service, Toyota Oil Service

Make Sure Your Toyota Air Intake Tube is in Good Shape

Posted by Duke Bishop on Wed, May 25, 2016 @ 08:18 PM

Just about all automobiles include an internal combustion motor, through which gasoline and air flow ignite inside an interior internal area to create the energy that powers your engine. Without the adjustments, your automobile pulls air flow using a stock intake hose and air box, that features a throw-away paper air filter. This stock intake was created to fit away from view and to minimize the sound of your engine, and for that reason it is not fashioned to get the best efficient air flow delivery attainable. It's really a skinny tube which includes a number of turns and kinks to help it in fitting inside your engine area, along with the air flow box pulls heat from inside of the same area.

toyota_air_intake_tubes.jpg

It's going to get flexed slightly forward and backward whenever you accelerate, and eventually since the rubber gets older and brittle it cracks and breaks open.

On older vehicles this can create a vacuum issue that significantly has effects on the idle and decreased rpm running.

If the vehicle is an automatic, the inadequate functioning may well be especially obvious at stops when you're vehicle is in drive.

 

It is because when the split tubing opens up, it allows a considerable vacuum leak by which air flow is allowed into the engine which has not passed through the air-flow meter to be measured to get combined using the correct amount of fuel.

In a few vehicles, the sort of air-use measuring system (a MAP sensing unit) doesn't assess the air flow by the same means, in addition to these vehicles the split air intake tube is likely to produce hardly any immediate difference in the way the engine functions for the short term.

Nonetheless, it allows unfiltered, dirty air into the engine, which then causes your engine to require replacing more quickly as small abrasive particles work at a distance within the internal moving components.

So by keeping the air intake tube in great condition it will not only support your engine to operate significantly better, but by making certain the air flow entering your engine is properly measured and filtered will even lengthen the life span of your engine which consistently will keep repair cost down.

Make Sure Your Anti-Freeze and Coolant Is In Good Shape Schedule Your Service Today

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Topics: Toyota Service

About 30k/60k/90k Toyota-Lexus-Scion Scheduled Service

Posted by Duke Bishop on Mon, Mar 14, 2016 @ 07:52 PM

Other parts of living are not urgent--they are merely significant. But simply because they are not pressing, we need to make strategic choices to take some action promptly prior to that which was merely significant turns into a disaster because of inattention.

Your Toyota's long-term well being is much like that.

One of the very most esse30k-60k-90k-Toyota-Lexus-Scion-Scheduled-Service.jpgntial to the Toyota, Lexus, Scion automobile user will be the 30K Services.

It is because the 30K Services are necessary for Toyota to maintain your warranty complete.

The dealership is within their legal rights to reject a manufacturer's warranty failure when the 30K Services has not been completed within a acceptable time period from the mileage interval that it is due.

While manufacturer planned routine maintenance may very well be crucial with your manufacturer's warranty, that doesn't imply the dealership have to perform routine servicing, although they love to seriously make it seem to be this way. Your car maker's warranty will keep intact providing you have the services completed by a certified auto repair professional.

As ASE accredited independent Toyota specialists, our company offers a comfortable alternative to the dealership. Your Toyotas is going to be maintained with an unusual level of personal concern and professionalism by specialists that service and repair Toyotas, Lexus, & Scions exclusively.

These mileage-based services include examining your automobile to be able to foresee whether vehicle repairs may well before long be necessary, and preemptively changing various fluids and tune related components to be able to keep your automobile's long-term wellbeing, overall performance, and dependability. The regular routine maintenance you provide to your automobile can make it possible for it to provide you with many years of enjoyable, trustworthy service.

You need to take note of your factory routine maintenance plan for several important reasons:

Your manufacturer's warranty could well be determined by it. Some manufacturers put such importance on 30/60/90K maintenance that by not following the schedule could void your automobile manufacturer's warranty.

It may well prevent little issues from turning into major ones. Regular routine servicing can determine potential issues in early stages just before they lead to a breakdown or harm other components, letting you preserve potentially Lots of money later on.

It may well increase the lifespan of the automobile. Standard routine servicing won't just keep the automobile operating; it maintains it functioning efficiently, meaning much more miles over its lifetime.

It will help maintain the automobile's worth. Should you sell your automobile, you'll sell it for considerably more if it's been adequately maintained.

 

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Why should you keep your Toyota-Lexus-Scion Battery Cables Clean!

Posted by Duke Bishop on Wed, Feb 17, 2016 @ 10:04 PM

You could be wondering is that this service genuinely that significant?

Battery cabling exchange electrical power from the battery to your electrical components of the car. Without having properly maintained cabling, the battery doesn't have a way of delivering power. The alternator and starter rely on battery cables for electrical power, so deteriorating cables signify your car or truck will not likely start-up or have any electrical power.

Toyota-Lexus-Scion-Battery-Clamps-Battery-Connectors.jpgCorrosion certainly is the battery cable’s worst adversary. In the event you open up the hood of the car, you will probably find a white colored or bluish powdery substance (dried up acid) around the battery terminals and cables. This acidic substance will corrode your car's battery terminal ends as well as the battery cable. It is a sound practice to get the battery and cables looked at and cleaned out at regular time intervals (we recommend every other oil change). This tends to stop the corrosion from building as well as extend the life of the car battery cables.

What are some common warning signs suggest you might have to replace the Battery Cable?Automobile doesn't start.

  • Car won't start.
  • Clicking sound when starting the car.
  • Electrical components (e.g. equipment and lighting, stereo audio, horn) may not operate.
When changing these, we typically make use of a marine style clamp that is included with an upright stud to bolt the cable ends to.

battery_clamp_battery_connector-1.jpgConversely we make use of a connector much like the authentic connectors from Toyota. A type of clamp which I dislike to discover is the style having a "clam-shell" portion that clamps to the bare wire-end of the cable. I personally don't like these, due to the fact they are generally a magnet for concealed corrosion which leads to starting issues in which the starter won't turn.


 

 

 

 

 

Make Sure Your Anti-Freeze and Coolant Is In Good Shape Schedule Your Service Today

 

 

Antifreeze: Cooling System Flush Lexus-Scion-Toyota

Posted by Duke Bishop on Wed, Jan 06, 2016 @ 07:57 PM

Good fresh antifreeze not merely shields your motor from freezing during the cold months, however also provides for a coolant that will keep the motor from getting too hot all year round. Additionally, it's corrosion inhibitors to counteract the metal within the cooling system from getting eaten away from the water within the coolant.

Additionally, it has ingredients which behave as lubricants to extend the life span of your water pump seals. Provided that it's not diluted with water, the freeze safeguard and the cabability to cool your motor remains good permanently.

Nonetheless, the corrosion inhibitors breakdown as time passes as well as heat. Antifreeze which gets far too old will start to eat away at important inner motor components and plug up interior cooling pathways, be responsible for getting too hot and trigger further damage, cost, and difficulty.

When flushing the cooling system, we empty the radiator and also the engine block and run freshwater throughout the system until eventually there is clean water going out of your radiator and also the engine block drains prior to re-filling the system with new coolant.
Good clean antifreeze not only protects your engine from freezing in the winter, but of course also acts as a coolant that keeps the engine from overheating year round.

This might be placing a fine point on things, but Toyota stipulates the usage of deionized water (normal water that's had the minerals removed from it) in their cooling systems. This is usually a much more important concern in regions which has a really hard water supply. Deionized water (or distilled water) is suggested both for first and second generation coolants, because the minerals within the water can precipitate out and minimize coolant passages. This concern is increased with coolants which have silicates within them, because the silicates combine with the minerals and collectively they precipitate out of solution and reduce coolant passages. In cases like this, it also leads to elevated corrosion as a result of reduced concentration of silicates.

We are fortunate to obtain soft water in Portland, which is what we use together with antifreeze when we're filling up a cooling system. In systems which require Toyota Super Long Life coolant this is a moot point, because it will come premixed with deionized water.

Types of coolant: Red-colored, pink or green? The short answer: The best most straight forward professional recommendation we can make is by using Toyota's red, Long Life Coolant wherever specified, along with their pink Super Long Life Coolant wherever specified. On vehicles over the age of 1998, Toyota's recommendations are quite general. We have learned to believe that the Toyota Long Life Coolant is more suitable for these vehicles as well in an effort to minimize clogged radiators.

Types of coolant: Red-colored, pink or green? The longer answer: Concerning commonly used green coolant as opposed to Toyota's red coolant in the older Toyota's although I am happy to use either according to customer personal preferences, I have learned to have a very distinct preference for Toyota's Long Life crimson coolant. It had been developed with full engineering knowledge of the several materials (seals and alloyed metals) it has to be compatible with. It had been also intentionally developed with absolutely no silicates. Even though the silicates in other coolants supply superb corrosion protection, over the long term they have a tendency to precipitate out and bring about decreasing coolant passages. This could ultimately lead to overheating and/or needing to replace the radiator. The extra price of Toyota's coolant is minimal if you take into account that the cost is amortized over the 2 to 3 year period of time which the superior coolant may well help save needing to replace your radiator.

I ought to note a balancing concern: On some motors in which the timing belt operates the water pump, a red coolant leak featuring a build-up of crystals could cause the timing-belt tensioner bearing to seize up at the pivot. This can lead to the timing belt going slack and hopping out of time. Generally this occurs in instances where the timing belt was over due for replacing anyway. I have never witnessed that happen using the green coolant. Clearly there is a trade off of considerations at play here.

The older Toyotas and Lexus (through 1998) (that we suggest Toyota's Long Life red coolant) simply require ethylene glycol coolant. Ethylene glycol is the primary antifreeze and heat-transferring ingredient to all three generations of Toyota coolant. To specify ethylene glycol does not say anything at all about which additives and corrosion inhibitors might be best. Even though Toyota distributed their own red stuff, I am not aware they published any requirements that could overtly drive people from utilizing the common green generic alternative. Nonetheless, my latest understanding is the fact that even during that time Toyota was working with absolutely no silicates within their coolant.

Toyota required a coolant change every 2 yrs or every 30k miles. We really encourage the same, although I am comfortable with 3 years or 30k. For many years I actively favored the green antifreeze to the red as a result of my strong impression that the red coolant more actively finds its way past seals and gaskets. I continue to have no question that I see red crystallized coolant deposits oozing past gaskets and seals more frequently than I see indications of the green coolant leaking. However, Ryan here recently brought up the probability that the red coolant may not leak anymore aggressively, but might basically leave a lot more noticeable tracks. This might be the situation, and actually appears likely to be so. I am aware that on older water pumps we usually see some staining underneath the weep-hole on vehicles which use green coolant. This staining may possibly signify the same amount of leakage that may have shown up as a mass of crystals on the water pump that was utilizing red coolant. I really cannot say for sure—in either case it is a slow seepage that dries out as it emerges.

Within just the 1st year after Ryan came aboard he pointed out that since he'd left Lexus in which they solely utilized Toyota coolant he was discovering far more radiators plugged up. He said he'd virtually never witnessed clogged radiators even on vehicles which had more than 200k on them. The clincher came for me personally when we came across a radiator that we had changed maybe 30k prior which was already displaying observable clogging of the passages. On that day I came to be a believer in making use of Toyota's Long Life red coolant, and that is what we promote to all our customers now that have vehicles that are 2003 or older.

In 1999 Toyota and Lexus announced their red long-life coolant, which is definitely what we want to use within these vehicles. They still recommended coolant replacement every two years or every 30k, which is the recommendations we adhere to, even though I am comfortable with 3 years and 30k. Toyota calls for coolant with zero-silicate, zero-amine, and zero-borate content. They designate that "use of improper coolants may possibly damage the cooling system" and stipulate that their coolant was created in order that it "will not clog radiators from silicone gelling" and "will not corrode aluminum surfaces like coolants which contain borate." When I have seen charts displaying the chemical profiles of brand new coolants, the Toyota long-life coolant is plainly different than Prestone's green-colored alternative, with the Prestone coolant plainly having the silicon and borate content that Toyota engineers specifically want to stay away from.

In 2004 Toyota and Lexus announced their pink super-long-life coolant. This is exactly what we use for these vehicles. Their endorsement on this coolant is it get replaced the 1st time at ten years or 100k miles. Their professional recommendation thereafter is it get replaced every 5 years or 50k miles. This puzzles me, and even though I am not usually cynical, I have discovered that a cynical part of me questioning that perhaps Toyota has taken this course as part of an attempt to maintain their advertised expense of ownership lower so they can improve new car sales. This coolant arrives premixed with 50% of it being deionized water. I've not observed any chemical profiles evaluating this coolant to the prior generation Toyota red long-life coolant, however they aren't incompatible, because Toyota specifies that you can add the Toyota red long-life coolant to top off systems that have the Toyota pink super-long-life coolant. Different dealers have selected different schedules on flushing this coolant. Some do it precisely by the book with the very first being at 100k and the second at 50k. At the time of this writing, the Lexus car dealership I am acquainted with was promoting coolant being flushed every 30k, and noticed that they normally get some particulate sediment coming from the system using the coolant.

Toyota's recommendations assume a perfectly managed coolant system, i.e. appropriate mixture, correct pressure, and consistently full. Clearly if the mixture is off—diluted from adding water—that will reduce the performance of the corrosion inhibitors and reduce the effective life of the coolant. Same goes with pressures: too low a pressure as a result of a defective radiator cap will increase the probability of internal metal erosion due to cavitation. Even allowing the system to go small grows corrosion, because the combination of air and steam in the system is a lot more corrosive than staying consistently bathed in coolant. This really is apparently more especially so for coolants with organic-acid-technology based corrosion inhibitors, that is the class of inhibitors that Toyota's Super Long Life coolant uses.

Concerning the service interval, I'm significantly impressed that simply to examine it, the coolant generally doesn't look bad even at 100k. If customers choose to go exactly with Toyota's recommendations, We have no quarrel with that, although I at this stage I still have some concerns that it is ultimately for the best to wait 100,000 miles and/or ten years before replacing the coolant for the first time. Time will tell.

There appears to be some reasoning for flushing the Super-Long-Life coolant every five years or 50k miles. It isn't a hard recommendation, but I think it may make sense in light to the fact that: Toyota makes the same recommendation of five years and 50k miles from there on after the very first 100k, and also simply because Toyota recommends coolant changes at 30k with their older (not-premixed) coolant that is chemically similar enough to be used as a top-off coolant.

Note: The Super Long Life coolant should not be utilized in the older Toyotas that included brass & copper radiators, as it's organic-acid-technology corrosion inhibitors are not effective for these particular metals or even the soldering utilized in these radiators.

Topics: Lexus service, Scion Service, Toyota Service

Replace Toyota Catalytic Converter With Aftermarket Converter?

Posted by Duke Bishop on Mon, Dec 14, 2015 @ 06:00 PM

Our practical experience would be that the Toyota catalytic converters are definitely and tremendously superior to the aftermarket catalytic converters.

They cleanup the pollution levels far more aggressively right out of the box, plus they commonly last from 5 to 10 times as long.

The newest aftermarket cats we have had opportunity exam have passed the emissions test by way of the thinnest of margins, where the Toyota catalytic converter would have effortlessly passed with room to spare.
Catalytic Converter

The Toyota cats operate considerably cleaner on abrupt accelerations as well. We have evaluated the emissions of Toyotas with brand-new Toyota catalytic converters on repetitive back-to-back snap accelerations (which results in producing maximum emissions) and the outcome continues to be that we see a high of only 50 to 60 parts per million of unburned hydrocarbons (HC). Performing exactly the same test on brand-new aftermarket cats has generated hydrocarbon readings as much as 1700 to 2000 parts per million.

Catalytic Converter

As for endurance, again and again we have seen those who have substituted their cats with aftermarket cats get stuck in a cycle in which there after they must change the catalytic converter every 2 years just making it through DEQ.

An additional downside to aftermarket cats is the fact that to be able to install the "universal" cat, the muffler shop will cut an area out from the original piping to be able to weld in the non-Toyota cat.

At that time, should the owner ever gets frustrated with needing to replace the cat again and again and wishes to go back to a Toyota cat, he must spend even a lot more than he would have, since he now has to restore the piping on each side of the catalytic converter to be able to restore the bolt-up flanges which have been cut off.

We had been recently talking about cat expenses with a Tundra owner and had occasion to calculate the expense per mile of one of Toyota's most costly catalytic converters. In this situation, the price figured out to around 1 ¾ cents per mile. It had made it through 150,000 miles. Models with less costly cats typically work out to less than half a cent per mile.

If the aftermarket cat this individual was contemplating were to fail inside a year-which is not really uncommon-then it would cost about 5 cents per mile if it survived 15,000 miles. That is certainly getting close to Three times the cost per mile. (Ok, it's 2.857 times the cost per mile.)

Even though groing through this with the customer, she pointed out that a muffler shop had informed her that they were utilizing an Original equipment manufacturer part that will be the very same as the Toyota part because theoretically OEM meant that it had been produced by the original manufacturer for Toyota. What OEM or Original Equipment Manufacturer actually means is that this organization at some point has provided some type of part for Toyota-could be anything at all, might be a gasket. What it doesn't imply is that they supplied the catalytic converters. If they had supplied the cats, they actually would not be marketing generic cats that required chopping the previous ones out and welding the new ones in.

As far as Catalytic converter breakdowns go, they are able to fail in several ways and from numerous causes. Most often, their capability to clean up emissions at some point basically dies out out and so they either don't succeed the DEQ emissions check, or, for more recent vehicles that monitor the converters, the computer are able to turn on the check engine light and will set a code saying "catalyst effectiveness below threshold."

In case your engine is persistantly burning oil, it has a tendency to leave crusty build up on the cat making it effectively inert. If those deposits continue on for enough time, at some point it plugs up the cat so you experience a serious decrease of power, for the reason that exhaust can exit rapidly enough allowing the engine to take the quantities of air it requires for power.

Operating the car having a cylinder misfiring leads to the cat to get too hot simply because it ignites all of the unburned fuel to burn within the cat itself. In this instance, it could function so hot the catalytic converter material disintegrates. This may lead to chunks of material getting stuck within the exhaust system in a manner that plugs up the exhaust to cause significant decrease of power. An additional manner in which the catalytic material can be broken up is that if something hits the outside the cat hard enough.

Topics: Toyota Repair

Hey Duke What is a Good Toyota, Lexus, Scion Car Battery?

Posted by Duke Bishop on Thu, Nov 05, 2015 @ 08:17 PM

We have a significantly strong opinion in support of Interstate batteries, that are produced by the same organization which makes Toyota's batteries, that's Johnson Controls. I've got a strong bias towards batteries produced by Exide.

The Toyota batteries produced by Johnson Controls come with an superb history of durability. During the early 1990's Toyota changed over to Exide for a couple of years, and for the first-time that we're aware of they began being required to warranty numerous batteries which were failing in under Twelve months.

They changed back to batteries produced by Johnson Controls, and which I know have not experienced trouble with poor batteries since.Through the 90's we saw exactly the same final results with Exide produced batteries offered under other companies' product labels also. In that period of time, Les Schwab batteries were created by Exide, and again and again we experienced circumstances in which the customer would have trouble "that could not possibly be the battery since it is only 3 months old" that would actually end up being another bad battery produced by Exide.

We Use Interstate Batteries
Batteries tend to be more prone to failure during cold temperature, as due to mixture of the battery being at a reduced level of chemical activity when cold, and also the engine simply being much harder to crank when it's oil is thicker because of being cold. A faltering battery can have numerous signs and symptoms. A gradually faltering batter will steadily turn the engine over slower in the course of start-up. 

Quite often the progression can be so gradual that the main driver does not recognize it simply because each day it's overall performance appears essentially exactly like it did the previous day. A weak battery gets drained of charge considerably more easily as well, so that perhaps only a couple of minutes of sitting with accessories on but the motor off will discharge the battery so you cannot start the vehicle.

When the battery is discharged enough that you no longer get a slow crank from it, quite often the starter will deliver several clicks for a single turn of the key. This occurs for the reason that battery has just enough capacity to engage the starter gear with the engine, but at that time it takes a lot more electrical power than the battery has the capacity to provide, which in turn causes the battery voltage to drop so low that it won't be able to even maintain keeping the starter gear engaged. So, the starter briefly releases, and then when the higher demand is removed, the battery has the capacity to supply enough power to reactivate the starter. This happens repeatedly back-to-back producing multiple clicks for as long as the key is held to the start position.

An alternative cause of the same symptom of multiple clicks in the starter could be poor cable connections from the cables to the battery, which, once again, allow just enough power through to engage the starter, although not enough to keep engagement in the face of the greater demands produced by attempting to crank the engine. From time to time the battery or battery connections will fail at just the right total of failure to permit the starter to give just one click and then hold however, not crank. More frequently the symptom of a single click but no crank implies an issue with the starter, or with the power supply from the key to the solenoid that activates the starter. Occasionally, though, the battery and/or connections can explain the single click.

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Topics: Toyota Repair

Is a small leak with my Toyota-Lexus-Scion water pump, a big deal?

Posted by Duke Bishop on Mon, Oct 12, 2015 @ 07:50 PM

Recently I received a telephone call, the person stated that his water pump has a minor leak and was it a problem?

An effectively operating water pump is crucial to your engine's well-being. It circulates coolant through the motor in order to avoid damage from getting too hot. Additionally, it circulates coolant through the heater to supply heat and also to clear the windows of fog or ice. Loss in coolant from a leaking water pump seals could cause overheating and can lead to severe damage to your engine.

In some models a bad water pump bearing can harm the timing belt and make it break or derail. In other models, a worn out bearing makes it possible for the radiator fan to tip forward and cut a hole in the radiator. Any of these developments bring about extra expense and inconvenience to you. Due to the possibility of devastating damage to the engine due to failure, a failing water pump ought to be given high precedence for repair.

toyota_water_pump-1

Contact Duke to have your Toyota, Lexus, Scion Serviced today! 503-505-9478

How you can determine whether your push ought to be replaced:

  • Let your automobile to sit overnight, parked within a garage having a clean cement floor. If you cannot park it inside over a clean cement surface, place a section of light-colored card board underneath your car or truck directly beneath the motor.
  • Look at card board the next morning. If it appears to be wet from water, you've got a leak someplace, most likely with your water pump or even the gasket. You may notice green fluid on the card board, it's antifreeze. And that means you absolutely have a coolant leak someplace.
  • Look at the water pump pulley. Search for the round section of your water pump the belt is around. Make an effort to push the pulley backward and forward. If it looks loose, it often is time for you to get a new one since the bearing is certainly going bad.
  • Listen to your automobile. Start your car or truck's engine with the cover up. In the event you hear a low-pitched grinding sound, it may be an indication that the bearing is certainly going bad. You'll be able to hear it plainly if it's gone bad.
  • Look for leaks around the water pump and gasket. If you see droplets of water or possibly a small stream, you've got a leak.


Notice in the event the temperature warning light switches on. If your automobile isn't really getting adequate coolant because of a leak or defective waters tube, your automobile engine's temperature will in all probability increase, activating the warning light.

Notice in the event the low coolant light is glowing. This is often a sign that the coolant reservoir is leaking or that you have a bad water pump. An additional alternative is that you have a leak in the coolant system.

Give attention to your car or truck's air conditioner. When your fresh air refresher fail to work effectively, the water pump is probably not doing its job.

   

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