Integrity Auto: Independent Toyota, Lexus, & Scion Specialists Blog

Make Sure Your Toyota Air Intake Tube is in Good Shape

Just about all automobiles include an internal combustion motor, through which gasoline and air flow ignite inside an interior internal area to create the energy that powers your engine. Without the adjustments, your automobile pulls air flow using a stock intake hose and air box, that features a throw-away paper air filter. This stock intake was created to fit away from view and to minimize the sound of your engine, and for that reason it is not fashioned to get the best efficient air flow delivery attainable. It's really a skinny tube which includes a number of turns and kinks to help it in fitting inside your engine area, along with the air flow box pulls heat from inside of the same area.

toyota_air_intake_tubes.jpg

It's going to get flexed slightly forward and backward whenever you accelerate, and eventually since the rubber gets older and brittle it cracks and breaks open.

On older vehicles this can create a vacuum issue that significantly has effects on the idle and decreased rpm running.

If the vehicle is an automatic, the inadequate functioning may well be especially obvious at stops when you're vehicle is in drive.

 

It is because when the split tubing opens up, it allows a considerable vacuum leak by which air flow is allowed into the engine which has not passed through the air-flow meter to be measured to get combined using the correct amount of fuel.

In a few vehicles, the sort of air-use measuring system (a MAP sensing unit) doesn't assess the air flow by the same means, in addition to these vehicles the split air intake tube is likely to produce hardly any immediate difference in the way the engine functions for the short term.

Nonetheless, it allows unfiltered, dirty air into the engine, which then causes your engine to require replacing more quickly as small abrasive particles work at a distance within the internal moving components.

So by keeping the air intake tube in great condition it will not only support your engine to operate significantly better, but by making certain the air flow entering your engine is properly measured and filtered will even lengthen the life span of your engine which consistently will keep repair cost down.

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Topics: Toyota Service

About 30k/60k/90k Toyota-Lexus-Scion Scheduled Service

Other parts of living are not urgent--they are merely significant. But simply because they are not pressing, we need to make strategic choices to take some action promptly prior to that which was merely significant turns into a disaster because of inattention.

Your Toyota's long-term well being is much like that.

One of the very most esse30k-60k-90k-Toyota-Lexus-Scion-Scheduled-Service.jpgntial to the Toyota, Lexus, Scion automobile user will be the 30K Services.

It is because the 30K Services are necessary for Toyota to maintain your warranty complete.

The dealership is within their legal rights to reject a manufacturer's warranty failure when the 30K Services has not been completed within a acceptable time period from the mileage interval that it is due.

While manufacturer planned routine maintenance may very well be crucial with your manufacturer's warranty, that doesn't imply the dealership have to perform routine servicing, although they love to seriously make it seem to be this way. Your car maker's warranty will keep intact providing you have the services completed by a certified auto repair professional.

As ASE accredited independent Toyota specialists, our company offers a comfortable alternative to the dealership. Your Toyotas is going to be maintained with an unusual level of personal concern and professionalism by specialists that service and repair Toyotas, Lexus, & Scions exclusively.

These mileage-based services include examining your automobile to be able to foresee whether vehicle repairs may well before long be necessary, and preemptively changing various fluids and tune related components to be able to keep your automobile's long-term wellbeing, overall performance, and dependability. The regular routine maintenance you provide to your automobile can make it possible for it to provide you with many years of enjoyable, trustworthy service.

You need to take note of your factory routine maintenance plan for several important reasons:

Your manufacturer's warranty could well be determined by it. Some manufacturers put such importance on 30/60/90K maintenance that by not following the schedule could void your automobile manufacturer's warranty.

It may well prevent little issues from turning into major ones. Regular routine servicing can determine potential issues in early stages just before they lead to a breakdown or harm other components, letting you preserve potentially Lots of money later on.

It may well increase the lifespan of the automobile. Standard routine servicing won't just keep the automobile operating; it maintains it functioning efficiently, meaning much more miles over its lifetime.

It will help maintain the automobile's worth. Should you sell your automobile, you'll sell it for considerably more if it's been adequately maintained.

 

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Why should you keep your Toyota-Lexus-Scion Battery Cables Clean!

You could be wondering is that this service genuinely that significant?

Battery cabling exchange electrical power from the battery to your electrical components of the car. Without having properly maintained cabling, the battery doesn't have a way of delivering power. The alternator and starter rely on battery cables for electrical power, so deteriorating cables signify your car or truck will not likely start-up or have any electrical power.

Toyota-Lexus-Scion-Battery-Clamps-Battery-Connectors.jpgCorrosion certainly is the battery cable’s worst adversary. In the event you open up the hood of the car, you will probably find a white colored or bluish powdery substance (dried up acid) around the battery terminals and cables. This acidic substance will corrode your car's battery terminal ends as well as the battery cable. It is a sound practice to get the battery and cables looked at and cleaned out at regular time intervals (we recommend every other oil change). This tends to stop the corrosion from building as well as extend the life of the car battery cables.

What are some common warning signs suggest you might have to replace the Battery Cable?Automobile doesn't start.

  • Car won't start.
  • Clicking sound when starting the car.
  • Electrical components (e.g. equipment and lighting, stereo audio, horn) may not operate.
When changing these, we typically make use of a marine style clamp that is included with an upright stud to bolt the cable ends to.

battery_clamp_battery_connector-1.jpgConversely we make use of a connector much like the authentic connectors from Toyota. A type of clamp which I dislike to discover is the style having a "clam-shell" portion that clamps to the bare wire-end of the cable. I personally don't like these, due to the fact they are generally a magnet for concealed corrosion which leads to starting issues in which the starter won't turn.


 

 

 

 

 

Make Sure Your Anti-Freeze and Coolant Is In Good Shape Schedule Your Service Today

 

 

Antifreeze: Cooling System Flush Lexus-Scion-Toyota

Good fresh antifreeze not merely shields your motor from freezing during the cold months, however also provides for a coolant that will keep the motor from getting too hot all year round. Additionally, it's corrosion inhibitors to counteract the metal within the cooling system from getting eaten away from the water within the coolant.

Additionally, it has ingredients which behave as lubricants to extend the life span of your water pump seals. Provided that it's not diluted with water, the freeze safeguard and the cabability to cool your motor remains good permanently.

Nonetheless, the corrosion inhibitors breakdown as time passes as well as heat. Antifreeze which gets far too old will start to eat away at important inner motor components and plug up interior cooling pathways, be responsible for getting too hot and trigger further damage, cost, and difficulty.

When flushing the cooling system, we empty the radiator and also the engine block and run freshwater throughout the system until eventually there is clean water going out of your radiator and also the engine block drains prior to re-filling the system with new coolant.
Good clean antifreeze not only protects your engine from freezing in the winter, but of course also acts as a coolant that keeps the engine from overheating year round.

This might be placing a fine point on things, but Toyota stipulates the usage of deionized water (normal water that's had the minerals removed from it) in their cooling systems. This is usually a much more important concern in regions which has a really hard water supply. Deionized water (or distilled water) is suggested both for first and second generation coolants, because the minerals within the water can precipitate out and minimize coolant passages. This concern is increased with coolants which have silicates within them, because the silicates combine with the minerals and collectively they precipitate out of solution and reduce coolant passages. In cases like this, it also leads to elevated corrosion as a result of reduced concentration of silicates.

We are fortunate to obtain soft water in Portland, which is what we use together with antifreeze when we're filling up a cooling system. In systems which require Toyota Super Long Life coolant this is a moot point, because it will come premixed with deionized water.

Types of coolant: Red-colored, pink or green? The short answer: The best most straight forward professional recommendation we can make is by using Toyota's red, Long Life Coolant wherever specified, along with their pink Super Long Life Coolant wherever specified. On vehicles over the age of 1998, Toyota's recommendations are quite general. We have learned to believe that the Toyota Long Life Coolant is more suitable for these vehicles as well in an effort to minimize clogged radiators.

Types of coolant: Red-colored, pink or green? The longer answer: Concerning commonly used green coolant as opposed to Toyota's red coolant in the older Toyota's although I am happy to use either according to customer personal preferences, I have learned to have a very distinct preference for Toyota's Long Life crimson coolant. It had been developed with full engineering knowledge of the several materials (seals and alloyed metals) it has to be compatible with. It had been also intentionally developed with absolutely no silicates. Even though the silicates in other coolants supply superb corrosion protection, over the long term they have a tendency to precipitate out and bring about decreasing coolant passages. This could ultimately lead to overheating and/or needing to replace the radiator. The extra price of Toyota's coolant is minimal if you take into account that the cost is amortized over the 2 to 3 year period of time which the superior coolant may well help save needing to replace your radiator.

I ought to note a balancing concern: On some motors in which the timing belt operates the water pump, a red coolant leak featuring a build-up of crystals could cause the timing-belt tensioner bearing to seize up at the pivot. This can lead to the timing belt going slack and hopping out of time. Generally this occurs in instances where the timing belt was over due for replacing anyway. I have never witnessed that happen using the green coolant. Clearly there is a trade off of considerations at play here.

The older Toyotas and Lexus (through 1998) (that we suggest Toyota's Long Life red coolant) simply require ethylene glycol coolant. Ethylene glycol is the primary antifreeze and heat-transferring ingredient to all three generations of Toyota coolant. To specify ethylene glycol does not say anything at all about which additives and corrosion inhibitors might be best. Even though Toyota distributed their own red stuff, I am not aware they published any requirements that could overtly drive people from utilizing the common green generic alternative. Nonetheless, my latest understanding is the fact that even during that time Toyota was working with absolutely no silicates within their coolant.

Toyota required a coolant change every 2 yrs or every 30k miles. We really encourage the same, although I am comfortable with 3 years or 30k. For many years I actively favored the green antifreeze to the red as a result of my strong impression that the red coolant more actively finds its way past seals and gaskets. I continue to have no question that I see red crystallized coolant deposits oozing past gaskets and seals more frequently than I see indications of the green coolant leaking. However, Ryan here recently brought up the probability that the red coolant may not leak anymore aggressively, but might basically leave a lot more noticeable tracks. This might be the situation, and actually appears likely to be so. I am aware that on older water pumps we usually see some staining underneath the weep-hole on vehicles which use green coolant. This staining may possibly signify the same amount of leakage that may have shown up as a mass of crystals on the water pump that was utilizing red coolant. I really cannot say for sure—in either case it is a slow seepage that dries out as it emerges.

Within just the 1st year after Ryan came aboard he pointed out that since he'd left Lexus in which they solely utilized Toyota coolant he was discovering far more radiators plugged up. He said he'd virtually never witnessed clogged radiators even on vehicles which had more than 200k on them. The clincher came for me personally when we came across a radiator that we had changed maybe 30k prior which was already displaying observable clogging of the passages. On that day I came to be a believer in making use of Toyota's Long Life red coolant, and that is what we promote to all our customers now that have vehicles that are 2003 or older.

In 1999 Toyota and Lexus announced their red long-life coolant, which is definitely what we want to use within these vehicles. They still recommended coolant replacement every two years or every 30k, which is the recommendations we adhere to, even though I am comfortable with 3 years and 30k. Toyota calls for coolant with zero-silicate, zero-amine, and zero-borate content. They designate that "use of improper coolants may possibly damage the cooling system" and stipulate that their coolant was created in order that it "will not clog radiators from silicone gelling" and "will not corrode aluminum surfaces like coolants which contain borate." When I have seen charts displaying the chemical profiles of brand new coolants, the Toyota long-life coolant is plainly different than Prestone's green-colored alternative, with the Prestone coolant plainly having the silicon and borate content that Toyota engineers specifically want to stay away from.

In 2004 Toyota and Lexus announced their pink super-long-life coolant. This is exactly what we use for these vehicles. Their endorsement on this coolant is it get replaced the 1st time at ten years or 100k miles. Their professional recommendation thereafter is it get replaced every 5 years or 50k miles. This puzzles me, and even though I am not usually cynical, I have discovered that a cynical part of me questioning that perhaps Toyota has taken this course as part of an attempt to maintain their advertised expense of ownership lower so they can improve new car sales. This coolant arrives premixed with 50% of it being deionized water. I've not observed any chemical profiles evaluating this coolant to the prior generation Toyota red long-life coolant, however they aren't incompatible, because Toyota specifies that you can add the Toyota red long-life coolant to top off systems that have the Toyota pink super-long-life coolant. Different dealers have selected different schedules on flushing this coolant. Some do it precisely by the book with the very first being at 100k and the second at 50k. At the time of this writing, the Lexus car dealership I am acquainted with was promoting coolant being flushed every 30k, and noticed that they normally get some particulate sediment coming from the system using the coolant.

Toyota's recommendations assume a perfectly managed coolant system, i.e. appropriate mixture, correct pressure, and consistently full. Clearly if the mixture is off—diluted from adding water—that will reduce the performance of the corrosion inhibitors and reduce the effective life of the coolant. Same goes with pressures: too low a pressure as a result of a defective radiator cap will increase the probability of internal metal erosion due to cavitation. Even allowing the system to go small grows corrosion, because the combination of air and steam in the system is a lot more corrosive than staying consistently bathed in coolant. This really is apparently more especially so for coolants with organic-acid-technology based corrosion inhibitors, that is the class of inhibitors that Toyota's Super Long Life coolant uses.

Concerning the service interval, I'm significantly impressed that simply to examine it, the coolant generally doesn't look bad even at 100k. If customers choose to go exactly with Toyota's recommendations, We have no quarrel with that, although I at this stage I still have some concerns that it is ultimately for the best to wait 100,000 miles and/or ten years before replacing the coolant for the first time. Time will tell.

There appears to be some reasoning for flushing the Super-Long-Life coolant every five years or 50k miles. It isn't a hard recommendation, but I think it may make sense in light to the fact that: Toyota makes the same recommendation of five years and 50k miles from there on after the very first 100k, and also simply because Toyota recommends coolant changes at 30k with their older (not-premixed) coolant that is chemically similar enough to be used as a top-off coolant.

Note: The Super Long Life coolant should not be utilized in the older Toyotas that included brass & copper radiators, as it's organic-acid-technology corrosion inhibitors are not effective for these particular metals or even the soldering utilized in these radiators.

Topics: Lexus service, Scion Service, Toyota Service

Replace Toyota Catalytic Converter With Aftermarket Converter?

Our practical experience would be that the Toyota catalytic converters are definitely and tremendously superior to the aftermarket catalytic converters.

They cleanup the pollution levels far more aggressively right out of the box, plus they commonly last from 5 to 10 times as long.

The newest aftermarket cats we have had opportunity exam have passed the emissions test by way of the thinnest of margins, where the Toyota catalytic converter would have effortlessly passed with room to spare.
Catalytic Converter

The Toyota cats operate considerably cleaner on abrupt accelerations as well. We have evaluated the emissions of Toyotas with brand-new Toyota catalytic converters on repetitive back-to-back snap accelerations (which results in producing maximum emissions) and the outcome continues to be that we see a high of only 50 to 60 parts per million of unburned hydrocarbons (HC). Performing exactly the same test on brand-new aftermarket cats has generated hydrocarbon readings as much as 1700 to 2000 parts per million.

Catalytic Converter

As for endurance, again and again we have seen those who have substituted their cats with aftermarket cats get stuck in a cycle in which there after they must change the catalytic converter every 2 years just making it through DEQ.

An additional downside to aftermarket cats is the fact that to be able to install the "universal" cat, the muffler shop will cut an area out from the original piping to be able to weld in the non-Toyota cat.

At that time, should the owner ever gets frustrated with needing to replace the cat again and again and wishes to go back to a Toyota cat, he must spend even a lot more than he would have, since he now has to restore the piping on each side of the catalytic converter to be able to restore the bolt-up flanges which have been cut off.

We had been recently talking about cat expenses with a Tundra owner and had occasion to calculate the expense per mile of one of Toyota's most costly catalytic converters. In this situation, the price figured out to around 1 ¾ cents per mile. It had made it through 150,000 miles. Models with less costly cats typically work out to less than half a cent per mile.

If the aftermarket cat this individual was contemplating were to fail inside a year-which is not really uncommon-then it would cost about 5 cents per mile if it survived 15,000 miles. That is certainly getting close to Three times the cost per mile. (Ok, it's 2.857 times the cost per mile.)

Even though groing through this with the customer, she pointed out that a muffler shop had informed her that they were utilizing an Original equipment manufacturer part that will be the very same as the Toyota part because theoretically OEM meant that it had been produced by the original manufacturer for Toyota. What OEM or Original Equipment Manufacturer actually means is that this organization at some point has provided some type of part for Toyota-could be anything at all, might be a gasket. What it doesn't imply is that they supplied the catalytic converters. If they had supplied the cats, they actually would not be marketing generic cats that required chopping the previous ones out and welding the new ones in.

As far as Catalytic converter breakdowns go, they are able to fail in several ways and from numerous causes. Most often, their capability to clean up emissions at some point basically dies out out and so they either don't succeed the DEQ emissions check, or, for more recent vehicles that monitor the converters, the computer are able to turn on the check engine light and will set a code saying "catalyst effectiveness below threshold."

In case your engine is persistantly burning oil, it has a tendency to leave crusty build up on the cat making it effectively inert. If those deposits continue on for enough time, at some point it plugs up the cat so you experience a serious decrease of power, for the reason that exhaust can exit rapidly enough allowing the engine to take the quantities of air it requires for power.

Operating the car having a cylinder misfiring leads to the cat to get too hot simply because it ignites all of the unburned fuel to burn within the cat itself. In this instance, it could function so hot the catalytic converter material disintegrates. This may lead to chunks of material getting stuck within the exhaust system in a manner that plugs up the exhaust to cause significant decrease of power. An additional manner in which the catalytic material can be broken up is that if something hits the outside the cat hard enough.

Topics: Toyota Repair

Hey Duke What is a Good Toyota, Lexus, Scion Car Battery?

We have a significantly strong opinion in support of Interstate batteries, that are produced by the same organization which makes Toyota's batteries, that's Johnson Controls. I've got a strong bias towards batteries produced by Exide.

The Toyota batteries produced by Johnson Controls come with an superb history of durability. During the early 1990's Toyota changed over to Exide for a couple of years, and for the first-time that we're aware of they began being required to warranty numerous batteries which were failing in under Twelve months.

They changed back to batteries produced by Johnson Controls, and which I know have not experienced trouble with poor batteries since.Through the 90's we saw exactly the same final results with Exide produced batteries offered under other companies' product labels also. In that period of time, Les Schwab batteries were created by Exide, and again and again we experienced circumstances in which the customer would have trouble "that could not possibly be the battery since it is only 3 months old" that would actually end up being another bad battery produced by Exide.

We Use Interstate Batteries
Batteries tend to be more prone to failure during cold temperature, as due to mixture of the battery being at a reduced level of chemical activity when cold, and also the engine simply being much harder to crank when it's oil is thicker because of being cold. A faltering battery can have numerous signs and symptoms. A gradually faltering batter will steadily turn the engine over slower in the course of start-up. 

Quite often the progression can be so gradual that the main driver does not recognize it simply because each day it's overall performance appears essentially exactly like it did the previous day. A weak battery gets drained of charge considerably more easily as well, so that perhaps only a couple of minutes of sitting with accessories on but the motor off will discharge the battery so you cannot start the vehicle.

When the battery is discharged enough that you no longer get a slow crank from it, quite often the starter will deliver several clicks for a single turn of the key. This occurs for the reason that battery has just enough capacity to engage the starter gear with the engine, but at that time it takes a lot more electrical power than the battery has the capacity to provide, which in turn causes the battery voltage to drop so low that it won't be able to even maintain keeping the starter gear engaged. So, the starter briefly releases, and then when the higher demand is removed, the battery has the capacity to supply enough power to reactivate the starter. This happens repeatedly back-to-back producing multiple clicks for as long as the key is held to the start position.

An alternative cause of the same symptom of multiple clicks in the starter could be poor cable connections from the cables to the battery, which, once again, allow just enough power through to engage the starter, although not enough to keep engagement in the face of the greater demands produced by attempting to crank the engine. From time to time the battery or battery connections will fail at just the right total of failure to permit the starter to give just one click and then hold however, not crank. More frequently the symptom of a single click but no crank implies an issue with the starter, or with the power supply from the key to the solenoid that activates the starter. Occasionally, though, the battery and/or connections can explain the single click.

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Topics: Toyota Repair

Is a small leak with my Toyota-Lexus-Scion water pump, a big deal?

Recently I received a telephone call, the person stated that his water pump has a minor leak and was it a problem?

An effectively operating water pump is crucial to your engine's well-being. It circulates coolant through the motor in order to avoid damage from getting too hot. Additionally, it circulates coolant through the heater to supply heat and also to clear the windows of fog or ice. Loss in coolant from a leaking water pump seals could cause overheating and can lead to severe damage to your engine.

In some models a bad water pump bearing can harm the timing belt and make it break or derail. In other models, a worn out bearing makes it possible for the radiator fan to tip forward and cut a hole in the radiator. Any of these developments bring about extra expense and inconvenience to you. Due to the possibility of devastating damage to the engine due to failure, a failing water pump ought to be given high precedence for repair.

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How you can determine whether your push ought to be replaced:

  • Let your automobile to sit overnight, parked within a garage having a clean cement floor. If you cannot park it inside over a clean cement surface, place a section of light-colored card board underneath your car or truck directly beneath the motor.
  • Look at card board the next morning. If it appears to be wet from water, you've got a leak someplace, most likely with your water pump or even the gasket. You may notice green fluid on the card board, it's antifreeze. And that means you absolutely have a coolant leak someplace.
  • Look at the water pump pulley. Search for the round section of your water pump the belt is around. Make an effort to push the pulley backward and forward. If it looks loose, it often is time for you to get a new one since the bearing is certainly going bad.
  • Listen to your automobile. Start your car or truck's engine with the cover up. In the event you hear a low-pitched grinding sound, it may be an indication that the bearing is certainly going bad. You'll be able to hear it plainly if it's gone bad.
  • Look for leaks around the water pump and gasket. If you see droplets of water or possibly a small stream, you've got a leak.


Notice in the event the temperature warning light switches on. If your automobile isn't really getting adequate coolant because of a leak or defective waters tube, your automobile engine's temperature will in all probability increase, activating the warning light.

Notice in the event the low coolant light is glowing. This is often a sign that the coolant reservoir is leaking or that you have a bad water pump. An additional alternative is that you have a leak in the coolant system.

Give attention to your car or truck's air conditioner. When your fresh air refresher fail to work effectively, the water pump is probably not doing its job.

   

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Toyota-Lexus-Scion: Axles (front)/CV Joints and Boots

axles-front-cv-joints-and-boots-1
The front axles (and a few rear axles with independent rear suspensions) have flexible joints around the outer and inner ends of your axles allowing your wheels to acquire power efficiently even when going around corners or when proceeding up and down in accordance with the automobile.

A rubber boot encases each one of the joints. This rubber boot is designed to safeguard the constant-velocity joint from losing its grease and from getting damaged by water or road debris.

Ultimately, following flexing through millions of rotations, these boots have a tendency to crack and split open. When this occurs, in the event the axle joint remains to be good, we regularly replace the boots and repack the joints with fresh new grease. So long as the boots are in one piece, the original Toyota joints have a tendency to hold up very well that I prefer replacing the boots to changing your entire axle. Once the boot cracks and splits open, the grease will get flung out also it exposes the joint to the chance of becoming contaminated with water and grit which encourages wear. Even in cases like this, the joint can often be cleaned, relubed, and rebooted when it has not been split open for too much time. On original axles—even with 150k to 200k miles—I would regularly anticipate getting more miles from rebooting the original axle than changing it with an aftermarke one so long as the original axle hasn't gone with out grease.

In the event the joint has become damaged, then the whole axle must be changed. When it is the outer joint that's damaged, it has a tendency to variously produce a cyclic clicking, or knocking, or grinding, or creaking sound when under-going sharp turns. When it is the inner joint that's bad, frequently the symptom will certainly be a heavy vibration experienced on straight line acceleration. If they are available, we've got a strong personal preference for implementing Toyota remanufactured axles. The only part that's being reused is the axle shaft. The joints are new and last as long as the original, which can be much longer than is often expected through the aftermarket axles we have encountered—either new aftermarket or remanufactured. For example, we not too long ago had a customer arrive in with both axles thoroughly symptomatic and badly worn which had been replaced with non-Toyota components at a major tire chain just a year and a half ago. They merely had 26 thousand miles.

As the damage to the axle joint continues, it may ultimately hinder your ability to corner safely and securely. Even though rare, in extraordinary instances it may possibly even break. Once the axle breaks, at minimum the automobile suddenly loses power to the wheels and won't drive. Sometimes it may damage other surrounding parts. A good friend of mine once suffered from an axle break and it also ripped loose his brake lines so that he simultaneously lost the capability either to accelerate or brake. He'd just come down out from the Pyrenees Mountains—off a steep, winding road that ran alongside a cliff's edge—and out on to a level, comparatively safe place to have it happen. Whew! Close call.
 
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Toyota-Lexus-Scion Air Filters: Airflow Fail Sensor

Understanding simply after you ought to replace your air cleaner is difficult since it'd rely principally on what form of driving you are doing and simply what proportion crud your air cleaner ingests. A filter that lasts regarding thirty,000 miles on the vehicle that's for the most part operated on freeways and town streets might last solely some months in an exceedingly country location within which the auto is driven often on gravel or dirt roads.

The engine air cleaner cleans the air that the engine uses for combustion in order that the engine will not get wiped out untimely by having gritty, abrasive air introduced into its internal moving elements.

If it gets too dirty, it restricts the flow into the engine and might cause a loss of power. On older vehicles it will build the engine run considerably richer and with greatly reduced fuel economy.

The signs of a unclean air cleaner vary and might very often have a detectable reduction in ratio. different signs and symptoms square measure potential ignition troubles cause by fouled spark plugs. associate unclean air cleaner inhibits the specified quantity of fresh air from reaching the engine that impacts the emission management systems of the automobile; decreasing air flow and manufacturing manner too made air-fuel mix that may foul the spark plugs. Fouled spark plugs will build a motor miss, rough idle similarly as beginning issues. to boot, a too made fuel mixture can increase engine build up which may even build the Service Engine before long light-weight to return on.

toyota_air_filters-1

We like the quality disposable filters. once Toyota started victimisation the start up vogue mass-airflow sensors to live what proportion air the engine was victimisation, for the primary number of years, it appeared like when we have a tendency to saw a mass-airflow detector fail attributable to fouling, it absolutely was in reference to a K&N air filter-the kind that includes a light-weight oil dressing.

At an equivalent time, we have a tendency to detected that Mazda had determined that victimisation K&N air filters would void the warrant on mass-airflow sensors. Since that point, we have seen many mass-airflow detector failures in vehicles with typical air filters as well; evidentially if you drive enough miles eventually the mass-airflow detector are often fouled with any filter.

But it appears telling to Maine that there was such a delay between the primary failures that we have a tendency to ascertained that were perpetually connected to K&N air filters, and therefore the failures that we have a tendency to eventually began to visualize with the standard filters.

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What About Automatic Transmission Flush For My Toyota-Lexus-Scion?

Toyota proper is essentially silent on when you should change the fluid in automatic transmissions under ordinary driving conditions.

They merely convey to examine and advise. We suggest changing your automatic transmission fluid by way of flushing it as being preventative maintenance every 30,000 miles, or sooner in the event the fluid has gone through a substantial colour change that signifies its condition has started to degrade.


get_your_toyota_lexus_scion_transmission_workingThe existing fluid can not be efficiently removed by merely draining. Because of the torque converter not draining, the majority of the fluid remains within the system whether or not the pan is removed.
The best way to accomplish a complete changeover from the transmission fluid would be to flush the entire system. This is very important to the life and health of your vehicle, and much more economic than being required to shell out the thousands required replacing or rebuilding your transmission later on.

The question is from time to time raised whether changing or flushing the transmission can cause any problems, especially when it comes to a vehicle that's long overdue for the fluid change. In more than 16 years of performing this particular service I haven't known any damaging consequence which may remotely be perceived as a result of changing the transmission fluid. I do not remember even any transmission incident that may have been perceived as a regrettable coincidence after changing the material. The approach we take to flush the transmission is actually nothing more than a incredibly thorough fluid change. After draining the pan, we make use of the transmission's own pump to pull in new fluid and push it through the system in the normal direction of flow, pushing out the old fluid ahead of the new. New fluid is pumped through the torque converter and on out from the cooler where we capture it within a drain pan. What could possibly be a more natural or safe way to change your transmission fluid?

Some shops use machines in the flushing procedure that might bring in other issues in to the process compared to what I have described as our procedure. A few of these issues may include special solvents and elevated pressures. Although I hear folks discuss back-flushing, I am not aware of whether any one of the standard procedures essentially involve reversing the fluid flow. I can not say from general observations regardless of whether these alternative procedures raise the potential risk of creating an unintended issue or not.

Signs your vehicle requires a transmission flush: Transmission Grinding or Unusual Sounds, Surging of the Vehicle, Slipping Gears, Trouble Shifting Gears.

 

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